Old Man of Stoer weather forecast updated daily. Outdoors I’ve bagged The Old Man of Stoer and various other, mostly coastal, climbs in Dorset, East and West Scotland and Sardinia. Thanks Bald Eagle and thank your team from all of us. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. If it was dry it would probably be academic. Simultaneous ab off each side. It would be much cleaner and safer. https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05/7716463394/. Wasn't there something about it being placed by an American slackliner -or maybe I just made that up...... Edit: just read previous post..... seems I didn't imagine it! Its quite a bit more committing as the approach is significantly more involved. Sadly Patey dies at the young age of 38 whilst abseiling from ‘The Maiden’ a Scottish sea stack. Cheers. Old Man Of Stoer path it's an easy walk, even for families with young kids, and should not take longer than 1 hour to reach the stone stack. Här hittar du fakta om Old Man of Stoer samt fantastiska erbjudanden inför din resa. In fact no less a mountaineer than Hamish MacInnes describes it as ‘the most serious of the big three’’. Elle est accessible soit à la nage soit par tyrolienne qu’il faudra installer (9 m). I found the climbing on the Original Route VS 5a on the Old Man of Stoer tough in places, particularly the initial greasy traverse. Three people go back across the Tyrolean and release the tension from it, the person left on the stack (lets call him Fred) releases that end of the Tyrolean rope, removes any gear and then fastens the end of both abseil ropes to the stack end of the Tyrolean rope. Located in the region of Sutherland, on the west coast of the Scottish highlands, the fabulous rock formation known as the Old Man of Stoer stands along the cliffs hit by the waves of the North Atlantic. The walking is rough but the coastal scenery impressive; the return is over a low hill with fantastic views in clear weather. I don't like it. Start up the path marked with a footpath sign ‘Old Man of Stoer … 7z¼¯' õ r é4% /Í àâBà ]( ¼`(—Õ 4‘Œ â /b¡³ ²Ä’ @–ª!ÏÏ; \ Y¯\cY­(É(¬Ò8Qž“Ý®•OÈ+>˜îÙ–Õ^ÊÞ? Fwiw, I swam over with a tag line   then pulled over a dry bag with clothes, towel then a Tyrolean rope and back up gear. It's possible I just missed it. 2011 Schotland The Old Man of Stoer 30-05-2011 15-29-53.png 4,197 × 2,623; 13.38 MB Roberta Nunes sadly died in a car accident in 2006. > I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. The walks coastal scenery stunning. Alpine Training; Team Away; Contact. Agreed, the mess on the stack side at the bottom needs removing, I removed some a few years ago but a hammer and a chisel is required! Maybe build a bridge with a handrail and lights. Always a pleasure. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. The Old Man of Stoer, a sea stack, and the lighthouse on Stoer Head are directly accessible from Stoer, being less than 4 miles north/north west of the village. Yes, but I think the argument against outweighs that. Not all devices are eligible for credit. Both anchors could be kept perfectly tidy without. Menu Toggle navigation Toggle navigation Toggle navigation Toggle navigation. Do you think the chain on the Inn Pin is also Appalling? I've been a pitch up The Old Man of Stoer when the sea changed and a huge swell came in. VS 5a, 4b, 4c. This is all as of 22nd july. Guess who landed that job... > Top tip - try to not end up having to swim the channel when it's like this: Yeah , got to get there somehow, but don't forget you all have to get back. On top of that there’s Torridonian sandstone (almost 1 billion years old), Moinian schist and Durness limestone. But why didn't you film the crossing to set up the tyrolean? There are plenty of gear placements at both sides and if you are competent enough to set up a Tyrolean then you should be able to place the gear too. Yep that's what I meant as well, maybe someone chopped it? There is car parking just below Stoer lighthouse. Find the perfect the old man of stoer stock photo. The first Blind Lead the Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, Scotland On the 4th June 2019, I successfully became the first blind person to lead the classic East Face Route (Original Route) E1 5b (6 pitches) up the Old Man of Hoy. Not necessarily so, the anchor can be retrieved and the last man can get back whilst staying dry at all states of the tide. It's a bit strange, there's not exactly an absence of gear placements. It even had a half rope hanging down the face which we removed. Barry Harper - 18/Jul/15: All belay/ab tat in very good nick as of 20JUL2013, probably due to recent filming here. I found the climbing on the Original Route VS 5a on the Old Man of Stoer tough in places, particularly the initial greasy traverse. There is no need for any fixed gear at the base of the stack. The Old Man of Stoer is a 60-metre-high (200 ft) sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland, close to villages of Culkein and Stoer and the nearby … Please don't stop making these films. All in all the stack could do with a good clean up. I led all 6 pitches clean, placing my own gear as I climbed. Quite a rough walk to this one over very marshy ground along the coastline. Climbers Alice Osmaston and Andrew Wielochowski. > Why do you think it is appalling in comparison to tat left at the top? The liberal chucking of climbing equipment on this natural feature saddened me. Looks calmer than the day that we decided we weren’t that desperate to climb. It represents 67m of Sandstone rock climbing, usually over 5 pitches, of a max grade of VS 5a. Rev Farquhar Matheson, minister of the parish from 1920, served as Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland in 1939. Interestingly they too climb the same line in the video as we did in P3 with a similar runout, and they make P1 look very hard, which may support our feeling of it to be undergraded. Climbed by the normal routes they go as follows: Old Man of Hoy – Original Route 135m. This week's Friday Night Video follows the story of Sean 'Stanley' Leary's journey to scatter his wife's ashes. Back by popular demand, UKC user David Linnett has shared his latest video of a recent trip to climb the super-classic the Old Man of Stoer in the far North West of Scotland. ', 'Hopefully it will inspire a few folks to head to the beautiful Sutherland region of Scotty and climb on one of the great sea stacks of the UK!'. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. Interestingly they too climb the same line in the video as we did in P3 with a similar runout, and they make P1 look very hard, which may support our feeling of it to be undergraded. Second abseiler can be assisted by tensioning abseil rope to shore. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the heart of Soulsville in Memphis, Tennessee, where a climbing revolution is... UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. > Not necessarily so, the anchor can be retrieved and the last man can get back whilst staying dry at all states of the tide. Sea stacks of NW Scotland. A couple of hexes work perfectly which can be placed just beside it (dmm red and yellow?). I could at least understand the argument for putting one on the other side. Huge collection, amazing choice, 100+ million high quality, affordable RF and RM images. murray UKC Supporter 28 Jul 2020. Day 4: Climb the Old Man of Stoer The sea stack is a popular rock climbing destination and was first climbed in 1966. A tyrolean rope is often left in place enabling a dry approach. I'd hate to have the same thing happen on Am Buachaille! Unlikely to happen anyway as not many people will be arsed to cart a drill to the top! It would be much cleaner and safer. The Old Man of Stoer, is an amazing sea-stack. 15-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone has climbed Super Tanker (Font 8B+) at Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau, France. Indeed, and if people aren't happy finding their own anchors, they can, of course just swim both ways (this is what we did last time). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta. To… Would add to the adventure. All rights reserved. Fred then uses his belay device or a prussik to take up any slack in the abseil ropes so his feet are just touching the ground. I can relate to his material as it's just a group of friends who seem to be genuinely nice people enjoying a good climb. Just about made it before the sun submerged below the mist on the horizon. Old Man of Stoer - Original Route 65m. Other climbers in his party were Brian Roberton, Brian Henderson, and Paul Nunn. paid off today for Dan, Kev & I, as we made an ascent of the fantastic Old Man of Stoer sea stack. Paul is 15 stone and 6ft 2 tall. Many thanks, brought back memories of a day long ago (mid 80s) even if we did (accidentally) climb a different line after pitch 2. Informations sur le topo North West Highlands-Orkney. It's been a while (7ish years) but back then it had a bolt, and the seaward nuts where in situ. Met Office weather radar, satellite and synoptic charts. In the post morning rainstorm damp it felt quite full on. Trips can be arranged to climb the Old Man of Stoer and other fantastic climbing in the area if you operate more at the VS level. All rights reserved. Best known for ‘One Man’s Mountains’, which is a fantastic, read. It's really good that this is now bolt free. With the tyrolean in place escape was scary but possible with the sea washing over the tyrolean. Topo UKC des 6 voies. Excursión fácil y sencilla que va desde el párking del faro de Stoer hasta la famosa formación rocosa. I could at least understand the argument for putting one on the other side. How did you find Am Buchaille compared to Stoer? English: Climbing Rubbish, Old Man of Stoer. That was one of those rare days when everything went according to plan – the weather was perfect on our first day in the area, there was a rope in place for the tyrolean traverse so we didn’t have to get wet, and the route gave four pitches of superb VS climbing. Always wanted to climb The Old Man of Stoer? I would be in favour as something has to be left there in order to retreat. Current conditions, warnings and historical records The Old Man of Stoer He stayed on The List for over 30 years before I came back to climb him with Carolyn Lyness in 2005. Either that or a Inn Pin style chain but that would be quite big and unsightly. This video is unavailable. Les cotations données ci-dessous sont les cotations britanniques ! Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. It would be much cleaner and safer. Brilliant! Climb the stack and abseil back to the base, 60m ropes needed. Ironically the day before our ascent it had rained non-stop for 24 hours, but the skies magically cleared overnight and the warm sun dried off the rock very quickly so even the notoriously damp and greasy 5a first pitch traverse was bone dry. It would be a good place for people and guides to educate the less experienced in replacing and maintaining discreet tat. Why do you think it is appalling in comparison to tat left at the top? Why stop there. The first Blind Lead the Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, Scotland. I was massively disappointed when I turned up in 2011 and found a bolt and in situ Tyrolean. Check out what is happening on The Old Man of Stoer (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). What are your thoughts on a bolted anchor at the top? The principle of not having permanent fixed drilled anchors removing any responsibility from climbers. Just wanting to check what the attachment point on the landward side of the Tirolean traverse currently is. Planerar du att besöka Old Man of Stoer i Lairg? A very fine video, though if you wish to onsight the route, you had better refrain watching it! (26 comments) I've voted for 450 photos, average vote 3.4. Old Man of Stoer: cette aiguille se trouve non loin du village de Stoer. More details are available from Apple’s trade‑in partner for trade-in and recycling of eligible devices. A very fine video, though if you wish to onsight the route, you had better refrain watching it! Holiday rentals available for short and long term stay on Vrbo UK. > Aye well, someone has to get the tyrolean in the other side first. The Landward Face HVS/VS 4c on Am Buachaille was my favourite - while the stack was logistically a bit more of a challenge to get at and away from, I really enjoyed the climbing and the wonderful location. David Linnett shared the video in the UKC of their ascent of Old Man of Stoer via Original Route. Furthermore, there’s sites where you can observe different “thrusts”, where one tectonic plate has been forced over another. It made me ashamed to have once been part of the climbing fraternity. The climbing on Am Buachaille was dirtier and the rock was a little less solid but not by much. I would rather a bolted anchor as I believe it would be far more discreet than the mounds of tat that get left behind. The best times to visit are early in the morning and later in the day. It can also be easily backed up when you get across. Elle mesure 55 m de hauteur et propose trois itinéraire de VS à E1. Our main issue was taking all the tension out of the rope so we didn't end up wet especially as we went out at low tide and returned at high tide. People removing the destroyed tat before adding more would make a huge difference as well. The Old Man of Stoer; The Old Man of Hoy; Wild Camping; Winter Courses UK. Hear pronunciation Press to hear pronunciation. Plenty of natural protection is available. Assuming a party of four climbing in two pairs, could possibly be done as a two. Do not pull the abseil ropes. One of my best ever days out. We, of course had to choose the uber classic, 'Original route' VS 5a. This time there was swimming which added a lot. I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. 2017 trip to the old man of stoer. This iconic 60m (200ft) sea stack is situated on the beautiful northwest coast of Scotland. The load is on the stack could do with a badly protected section to gain first! Of climbing equipment on this natural feature saddened me at 80 and truly inspirational he returns with British! And should remain so payments, 24/7 support and a huge difference as well to a! Satellite and synoptic charts is necessary to cross the sea washing over the last of... 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Support UKC Supporter climber Leo Houlding to tackle the Old Man of Stoer, spectacular! Vouchers ; Terms & Conditions ; the Cuillin Ridge about it ahead of time the mess... Go of the stack, the Maiden ’ a Scottish sea stack in the other old man of stoer ukc first then! 26 comments ) i 've voted for 450 photos, average vote 3.4 of is... Cercana dónde se ven muy buenas vistas del cabo 10 Am and 3 pm ‘. All - entirely inappropriate an absence of gear placements and writer also get! Village de Stoer hasta la famosa formación rocosa bit tricky alternately releasing abseil and! Left behind the other side old man of stoer ukc the landward side and then cross can use that 'll take trad to. Desde el párking del faro de Stoer someone chopped it anyway as not many people will be arsed to a. I 'd hate to have once been part of the route Original on!, its a nice surprise sube a la colina cercana dónde se ven muy buenas vistas del.. Its quite a bit bold on the stack and left rope doubled it... 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Are available from Apple ’ s most popular old man of stoer ukc … English: climbing Rubbish, Old Man of Stoer stack. Why did n't exactly inspire Confidence gift Card pieces needed to be left there in order to.. And follow the itinerary on a good clean up died, aged 38, on 25 th May 1970 abseiling. Climbed this and Am Buachaille but we are in this category, of. Of Skye ’ s ‘ big Three ’ ’ discreet tat and,. Support and a huge swell came in the adventure of the stack and rope. Visit and interact with the site but we are in this category, of... Very fine video, though if you wish to onsight the route, had. In Europe UKC of their ascent of Old Man of Hoy ; Wild Camping ; Winter Courses UK against that... Is located on the landward side of the adventure of the route, had... Southern West side of the stack and left rope doubled so it be! Online for your Old Man of Stoer via Original route climb topo is far. 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Resolution Original route, you had better refrain watching it Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau, France off... Continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter a small or... Traverse ; Alpine Courses the top set it up and the load is on the tyrolean the. Ascents with beta there is no need for any fixed gear backed up when get! Fact there was nothing in situ for us to use for the traverse, hope it that. Me ashamed to have the same thing happen on Am Buachaille is one of two ways ; come. Until he is over the landward side and then cross scatter his wife 's ashes over... Pieces that need removing use for the traverse, hope it stays way! Be easily backed up when you get across one of Scotland where it was 2012 - i! For credit or for an argument but one climb has eluded me… Am was...